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This year my good friend Annie Carmichael went to New Orleans to celebrate Mardi Gras. As she sent me photos, I had two immediate thoughts. First, why wasn’t I there? And second what was I going to give up for Lent (don’t worry it wasn’t wine). She kept sharing all of the fun she was having. Her photos made me realize how much I missed New Orleans. I decided I would write about the city for my next blog post. Andrei Codrescu, the poet, was asked, “How did you fall in love with New Orleans?” He famously responded, “At once, madly. Sometimes I think it was predestined.” I am inclined to agree with his statement. I fell in love with the city the first time I visited. That was over a decade ago.

Mardi Gras, in French, translates to Fat Tuesday. This indulgent feast day stems from medieval traditions in preparation for Lent. In the 17th century, the French families brought this practice to the French colonies of Louisiana. Notably, the House of Bourbon played a key role in this cultural transfer. The carnival takes place every year. It ends on Fat Tuesday, which is the gluttonous feast day before Ash Wednesday. If you can’t make it to New Orleans during the month-long Mardi Gras festival, do not worry. The charming city evokes a carnival-like atmosphere all year long. The vibrant energy of the people and the street musicians on every corner is contagious. New Orleans is a cultural experience rooted in French-Creole cuisines dating back centuries, unique to America. The city has exploded with culinary surprises around every corner, and there is something for everyone. My daughter tried her first oyster on Royal Street and since then has developed a love for crayfish. I have had some of the best food in New Orleans and I decided to share some spots with you.

Picking a hotel in a city with many great options can be overwhelming. I like to stay at The Chloe, located in the Uptown neighborhood bordering the Garden District. The Chloe was built in 1891 as a private home by a wealthy New Orleans family. The charming historic mansion was converted into a fourteen-room boutique hotel in 2020. The welcoming front porch invites you inside as you are greeted with a signature cocktail upon check-in. The narrow backyard features an intimate lounge pool. There is also a bar where you can sit and relax after your journey. But if relaxing is not on your agenda, do not worry. You will find another lively bar in the nook of what was once the family dining room. The restaurant at the hotel is a must-stop. I highly recommend the burger. It was voted the number one burger in New Orleans. When you are ready to venture out, the hotel is perfectly located on St. Charles Avenue. I recommend you hop on the trolley. Stop a few blocks down at The Columns. The Columns is another historic private home that was built in 1883 and converted into a hotel in 1953. The Michelin award-winning hotel is owned by a local family and is known for its charming Southern hospitality. This popular place is an ideal stop to grab a cocktail and people watch. You can take in the scene surrounded by the beautiful Magnolia trees. Further down the avenue is Hotel Pontchartrain. It is one of my favorite places to take in the city views. Plan accordingly for the sunset or evening lights at the rooftop cocktail bar. It is truly a spectacular way to take in the city.

After a busy night I like to walk in Audubon Park. It is a beautiful city park with trails, ponds, and a golf course across from Tulane University. The park is full of massive Southern Oak trees cloaked in Spanish moss and they never fail to impress me. as they sway in the wind, oblivious to the people walking by. There are two main entrances to the park, St. Charles Avenue and Magazine Street. Magazine Street runs parallel to St. Charles and continues to be one of my favorite streets to walk. There are endless boutiques, art galleries and restaurants up and down Magazine. The Vintage has great coffee and beignet’s, Ruby Slipper and Birdy’s Behind The Bower are my go to brunch spots. Drop into Becky Fos’s gallery for some local art and then Paradise Lounge, located inside Hotel St. Vincent for a espresso martini. There are endless dinner options on Magazine Street. I will dedicate an entire blog on the restaurants another time. In the meantime, put Gris Gris and Coquette on your list.

A favorite area of mine is Marigny and Bywater; two adjacent historic neighborhoods east of the French Quarter. The bohemian culture reminds me of the 18th arrondissement in Paris. Frenchmen Street is full of lively jazz bars and pop up art shows. These are they type of places where you expect Lana Del Rey to walk by and you wouldn’t think twice. Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits is in the Bywater area on Poland Avenue. Don’t let the outside fool you, this is one of the best spots for great wine and live music. I have visited this place every time I have been in New Orleans and it never disappoints. As soon as you walk into the fine wine store, you pick out your bottle(s). Then, you pick out items for a charcuterie board. From there, you step outside and find a seat to watch the live music and wait for your food. The place makes you feel like you are at a friend’s back yard house party watching your other friend’s band.

I have a few favorites in the French Quarter. Cafe Beignet is my first stop before I leisurely stroll in and out of the stores. Royal Street is full of art galleries and antique stores. Vintage 329 is a must stop for me. The store has one of the largest collection of vintage jewelry. It also boasts a wide selection of cocktail glassware. I have learned my lesson over the years. I go early before any Champagne. I collect vintage costume jewelry and cocktail glasses. This is a dangerous store for me. The Carousal Bar in Hotel Montelene is a must stop, especially if this is your first time in New Orleans. One of my favorite restaurants is Sylvain. It is named after the first New Orleans Opera. It is on Chartres Street, one block from Jackson Square. The quaint restaurant is located inside an 18th-century carriage house. You can still see the exposed brick and lush greenery. The menu is full of classic recipes. I recommend you start off with one of the Champagne & Fries specials and go from there. Another great spot is Jewel of the South, on St. Louis Street. If you can try and get a table outside on the beautiful patio enclosed in magnolia trees.

New Orleans is a unique city full of life and a city I highly recommend you visit. Until next time!